We are in Corfu for the week, and are greatly enjoying it.
The sea views are amazing, and I have never seen such lovely turquoise seas. Love the rock formations.
The view from our apartment
A cove on the “Main Beach” at Paleokastristra.
Some of the many cliffs that surround Paleokastistra.
The “Main Beach”, one of six beaches at Paleokastistra.
Gerald Durrell blamed himself for making Corfu such a popular holiday destination.
I blame Gerald Durrell (who incidentally was born in the same small town as I was, Jamshedpur, India!!) for the hordes of the most gorgeous stray dogs and cats everywhere.
Two friendly strays outside the monastery.
The only dog allowed into the monastery.
Irene, who loves his books told me of a scene in “The Garden of the Gods,” where Durrell asks the owner of a pregnant dog for a puppy. The Durrells already had four dogs, and their mother had refused to have any more. However, he reckoned that if he arrived with a puppy, their mother would not say no. So the owner shows up with a pup, but not the one Gerry wanted. When he goes back with her, he hears the ground barking and heaving. She had buried the blind pups alive, and excavates them, their mouths filled with soil from their barking. The more they barked, the more soil entered, until they would have choked to death. He showers her with his best Greek curses and takes them home, and his mother lets him keep them. All of them! Wondering if the descendants of these fabulous eleven now populate Corfu.
We went to the Paleokastristra Monastery, also called Theotokos Monastery this morning. My, what a monastery—quite unlike any Catholic monastery I’ve seen. A strong odour of cat’s pee. Dozens of beautiful cats all over, on the grape arbour, in the courtyards, mating on roofs, tiny newborn kittens suckling in cardboard boxes.
Four cats on the grape arbour.
The most spectacular view from the courtyards of the glittering Ionian sea.
Glorious icons and mosaics.
Mosaic in an alcove under the grape arbour.
Mosiac in an alcove under the grape arbour.
Icon of the Virgin (In the church)
The communion of saints (Painting in the church)
Ceiling painting of the Trinity, and the Virgin.
I particularly loved the layout, gracious courtyards beneath grape arbours. Another thing which struck me was the complete absence of the cat-loving monks.
A bell tower typical of the area.
Anita and Irene test the echoing well.
The monastery’s upper courtyard.
Walked to modestly named Bella Vista with startling views of the Ionian islands, and explored a couple of gorgeous beaches.
View from Bella Vista
View from Bella Vista
View from Bella Vista (Note peninsula with Paleokastritsa Monastery)
I was in Greece many years ago in my youth (high school), but to all the usual tourist places…Parthenon, etc. Greece was probably m least favorite place. The people didn’t seem to have any interest in the upkeep of their national treasure sites (in contrast to Scotland), and I will never forget the images (and smells) of the trash just lying everywhere and men urinating in the streets (tucking into alleys, but still…) in Athens. Everyone was sweet and absolutely delightful…but there was a high “yuck factor” involved with the hygiene of their big touristy cities. I’m so very grateful to have a different experience through your blog of the country -I’m sure most Greek sites are more like what you’re considering, but I had officially marked a return visit off my bucket list, but now I’m wondering if a trip to Corfu might satisfy my hubby’s craving for Greece, yet not upset my sensibilities. They should pay you advertising fees. 😉
“Ducking”…not “tucking”…dang autocorrect on this iPad 😉
Sadly, there is quite a lot of trash in corners of beaches and streets in Corfu. Surprising for a touristised island. But it is so beautiful now, in the spring, and sweet-smelling, so I barely notice it.
I loved the Parthenon. We did a whirlwind 10 days trip through Greece when the kids were little–I loved Delphos, Olympia and Corinth. May try it again now that they are older. Will have to do it in April or October. My husband wilts in the heat, and so do I, so we try to stick to Northern Europe in the summer.
I probably sound like a real travel junkie, though I am really a contemplative sort of woman, though my normal life is so sedentary and book and screen oriented that I do need the “fix” of travel, sun, walking, and nature to keep fresh.
Ohhhh it’s GORGEOUS! Thank you. Gerald Durrell’s the reason I hope to visit Corfu one day. His books are marvellous. Incidentally, the stray cats were there before he was – in one book he details how a tutor of his, in the Jewish quarter, had a shotgun ever-ready to shoot the stray cats which entered his garden and so relieve their suffering!
Very cool. I read some Durrell as a teen, but now it’s my 13 year old, Irene, who devours them! And oh the cats, everywhere. I suppose there are no natural predators, and a mild, aphrodisiac climate!
She has good taste. I think I started earlier than that, but still go back to the books frequently. I’ve expanded to Attenborough now, as well, but he’s less funny than Durrell 😉